How to waterproof and plug leaks in the bathroom

The general practice is to sweep clean on the original ground, to sweep very clean, and then brush 2 times waterproof paint, the wall should be extended to 30-40 cm, if there is a shower room, to brush at least to the height of the meter, is also 2 times, after brushing, the door bricks, also brush waterproof, and then put water on the ground, generally put 10 cm enough, (sewer, toilet mouth, must be connected with PVC pipe high) and then make a mark at the highest point of the water level, the next day to see the mark, if the mark is still on the water level, it means that the waterproof is successful.

It is best to use CT-2000 high-efficiency composite waterproofing agent for new toilet waterproofing. Just clean the ground and soak it with water. It's like touching a concrete surface.

After molding 5 mm, it will do. The construction is simple and convenient, and the products are green and environmentally friendly. After doing this, the closed water test can be done in 3 hours.

If it's an old bathroom plugging leak. You can do the waterfront plugging from the room below the bathroom. If you can't find the leakage, you can also use the blind plugging method to deal with it.

It does not affect the aesthetics, and does not break the tiles. Processed under our technical guidance. The average person can deal with the bathroom leakage by himself.

We've done thousands of these waterproofs, and one of them has been flooded for months, but the water doesn't leak from the bottom. We have more than 30 years of experience in the reinforcement construction of waterproof and leakage plugging structures, and provide free professional and technical consultation on concrete waterproof leakage repair, and introduce the performance of plugging materials. For more help, better service, please tell me your QQ or add me to the friend chat.

Many owners are asking whether it is better to do waterproofing when the sunken bathroom is done, is it done before the backfill or after the backfill? How to make a good waterproof effect? So we have compiled your questions into the following post, I hope it will be helpful to you.

Now many developers are designed to sink the toilet, on the one hand, in order to facilitate the installation of toilets, on the other hand, it is convenient for the upstairs and downstairs not to disturb each other, but it also has drawbacks, if you encounter irresponsible workers to do, there will be problems in the future, first of all, the floor of the bathroom must be cut off, all the work has to be done again, labor and money. Therefore, we must try to avoid this situation, do a good job of waterproofing, and waterproof once and for all.

Generally, waterproofing is done after backfilling, of course, if there are conditions (economic conditions and time conditions), it is best to do it once before backfilling, and then do waterproofing again after backfilling. If the developer has made waterproofing, it is recommended that you do it again; Let's not talk about the quality of the waterproofing made by the developer, it is easy to destroy the waterproof layer in the process of hydropower transformation, so it is better to do a waterproof at ease.

It is best not to use slag, because the waste slag is uneven and very miscellaneous, the larger slag will cause too large voids, and the ground will crack or the upper heavy load will cause the ground to settle and damage in the future, and there are many edges and corners in the waste slag, for fear that the pipeline will be damaged carelessly, it is best to backfill with carbon slag and ceramsite, and the carbon slag absorbs water and moisture, and is light and strong, and the pressure on the floor slab is relatively light.

As the saying goes: three points of materials, seven points of construction, to do a good job of waterproofing not only to choose suitable, quality assured waterproof materials, but also to standardize the construction. In the kitchen and bathroom, where there are many pipes and sanitary ware, and where there are more humid places, it is more suitable to use mortar waterproofing agent.

The wall of the bathroom should be meter high, and if there is a wardrobe next door, it is best to be full high!

yiban quanzhu meiyou bu de jia zhi

1. Grassroots treatment.

First of all, we carry out base treatment on the wall and ground of the bathroom, and level the wall and ground, especially the yin and yang corners and the curved parts of the pipes. If there are cracks in the wall, it needs to be repaired first to ensure that the entire wall is smooth and clean, and then before construction, you can sprinkle some water on the wall and ground to moisten the surface, but you can not leave open water.

2. Paint with waterproof coating.

Next, we first stirred the waterproof paint on the wall and began to paint the wall part. We need to paint the wall evenly first, and apply more waterproof paint to the corners of the wall and the pipe part, to ensure that the coating and the wall are completely bonded, and the height of the painting should be consistent. Wait until the waterproofing coating is dry, and then brush the waterproofing paint a second time according to the criss-cross method.

Finally, we stirred the waterproof paint on the ground and brushed the waterproof paint according to the steps above. Waterproof paint is generally brushed twice, if the waterproof requirements are high, you can brush it again.

3. Protective layer.

In order to prevent us from accidentally damaging the waterproof layer during construction. We can first lay a protective layer, the protective layer should be completely covered with the waterproof layer, and the base layer should be firmly combined, so as not to appear omissions, cracks, bubbles and other phenomena.

4. Closed water test.

After the waterproofing coating has dried, we can perform a 24-hour closed water test. You can make a threshold for the bathroom first, then block the drain and put about 2cm of water into the bathroom. Wait until 24 hours, go downstairs to the owner's house to observe whether there is a leak in the ceiling, if there is a leak, then you need to do it again.

1. The connection between the toilet and the drain pipe is leaking, because the height of the drain pipe is not enough, the depth of the outlet of the toilet into the drain pipe is not enough, and the connection is not filled tightly; The waterproofing treatment in the bathroom is not good, and after the toilet is used, the floor is watery, the walls are damp, and even the lower roof wall is damp and dripping.

2 water leakage at the inlet of the squatting pit upper well: during the construction, the water interface of the squatting pit was smashed and it was not found that the rubber bowl on the water was not tied, or after being tied with the wire, the iron wire was rusted and broken and the rubber bowl and the water connection of the squatting pit K water was broken, so that the water on the ground and the wall of the squatting pit were wet after use, causing the lower roof and wall to be wet and dripping.

3. The installation of sanitary ware is not firm, the reason is that the embedded wooden bricks are not licensed or embedded at the end during construction, the installation of sanitary ware is not firm, and the sanitary ware is loose and unstable when used, causing damage or leakage of pipeline connectors.

4. Floor drain drain seepage: the elevation of the drain is not suitable for the elevation of the ground or the equipment between the guards, resulting in inverted flooding, and the drainage of sanitary equipment is not smooth, so that the weak part of the linoleum will leak or the linoleum will rot; The height of the upper mouth of the floor casing is too small, and the water leaks directly from the casing to the roof of the lower floor.

5 local or general leakage of the lower roof is advised to do a good job of the finished product protection after the linoleum is not done after the sleeve felt is partially aging and cracked In addition, due to the hollow drum cracking of the layer through the floor pipe is not casing, the hole R is not treated well after the hole is drilled, and the bricks, sawdust and other sundries in the wet concrete of the plugging hole are blocked, and cracks occur at the junction between the concrete and the floor slab of the plugging hole, resulting in the waterproof layer and the screed layer being drilled and not cared, forming a water inlet. Water enters the trench layer through the defect, causing leakage in the roof.

6. The waterproof height is not enough, so that the other side of the sanitary road body appears damp spots or wandering, and even flows down the pipeline interface to the next layer.

7. The linoleum rubbing mouth is not firmly pasted The mountain is now open and warped, or due to the local deformation of the base layer, the junction of the linoleum flat façade is broken, resulting in damp spots or weak flow marks in the upper part of the lower layer and the pipe stream field.

Do a full waterproofing coating. THE HEIGHT IS BEST AT 180CM.

Buy a bag of plugging agent in a store that sells decorative materials.

First do a good job of waterproofing the corners and roots of the pipe, and then do a large area (on the basis of the corners and roots of the pipe, then do it with a large area of waterproofing).