How to tell if the 12cm wall of the bathroom is load bearing

1. Judging by sound: It is a light wall that has a crisp echo when it hits the wall, while the load-bearing wall should not have too much sound.

2. Judging by thickness: the wall thickness of the non-load-bearing wall in the house plan is obviously thinner than that of the load-bearing wall, generally about 10 cm thick. The load-bearing walls are all thicker, second only to the exterior walls. The same thickness is basically a load-bearing wall, and its thickness is generally about 24 cm.

3. Judging by the location: the exterior wall is usually a load-bearing wall; The wall that is shared with the neighbors is too. General non-load-bearing walls in bathrooms, pantry, kitchens and hallways.

4. Look at the drawings: the thick solid line part in the construction drawing and the wall under the non-load-bearing beam in the ring beam structure are all load-bearing walls. The on-site inspection of the wall without prefabricated ring beams must be load-bearing walls.

Non-load-bearing walls are generally marked with thin solid lines or dotted lines on the drawings, and are walls made of lightweight and simple materials, while non-load-bearing walls are generally thinner and are only used for partition walls.

<>1, identified by the part of the wall.

The exterior wall must be a load-bearing wall, and you can't smash it if it's not, hehe. The wall shared with the neighbors is also a load-bearing wall, and it has become one after smashing two families. The walls of bathrooms, kitchens, and bedrooms are generally non-load-bearing walls.

2. Identification by listening to the voice.

Knock on the exterior wall of your house first, listen to the sound of the exterior wall, which is generally very solid and very quiet, and use this sound as the standard for the sound of the load-bearing wall. If other walls, when you knock, the sound is different from the sound of the outer wall, the sound is very brittle, relatively loud, can basically be judged as a non-load-bearing wall.

3. Look at the thickness of the wall to identify.

First, measure the thickness of the exterior wall to determine the standard for load-bearing walls. The thickness of the load-bearing walls is different for different buildings. Then measure the thickness of the wall you want to knock down, if it is much lower than the thickness of the load-bearing wall, it can basically be judged as a non-load-bearing wall.

Your house is 94 years old, see if it is a brick-concrete structure, if it is a brick-concrete structure, you can't move it.

At that time, brick and concrete were the majority.

You can also look at the indication on the title deed whether it is a load-bearing wall.

If you want to have a load-bearing wall, don't move it, and consider other options.

Whether it is a load-bearing wall, I think it is best to let the property company explain, otherwise even if it is not a load-bearing wall, if the property company does not say yes, it will be a troublesome thing at that time;

In 94 it is better not to smash the house. At that time, the houses were almost all built of bricks, and the life of Chinese houses was short, at most twenty or thirty years was about the same, I don't know what floor you are on, if you are still considered to be able to smash it on the top floor, it will be exempted on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors, for yourself, and for the whole building

Hit, 12 cm, is not a load-bearing wall, even if there is a load-bearing object in the space in the upper part of the wall, the weight of this part of the wall will be easily distributed to the load-bearing wall below and to the right.