The problem of waterproofing the bathroom! Thank you for helping me

Bathroom waterproofing practice: The bathroom space of ordinary residential buildings is narrow, and there are pipelines passing through the floor slab, etc., so the coating is commonly used for waterproofing and the membrane is rarely used for waterproofing. There are 2 common types of paint waterproofing:

Synthetic polymer --- polyurethane waterproof coating (polyester cloth, glass fiber cloth, etc. are required for corners, etc.), polymer modified asphalt, ---S B S waterproof coating (carcass reinforcement material, polyester cloth, glass fiber cloth, etc.) Asphalt-based waterproof coatings are basically not used. The general practice of polyurethane waterproof coating is as follows: 1:

The ground is oriented to the slope of the floor drain, cement mortar or bean stone concrete can be used, but the surface should be flat. The slope near the door is small, and the slope near the floor drain is large, so you can grasp it according to the specific situation. 2：

The pipeline passes through the root of the floor slab to strengthen the waterproofing. After the pipe root building sealing paste is sealed tightly, and the cement is smoothed and the foot pads are smoothed, the glass wire cloth reinforcement layer is 1 or 2 layers when brushing the waterproof coating. The same measures are taken near the floor drain.

3: The wall is clean and flat, without floating ash and small particles, and the junction of the wall and the ground is wiped with small original corners or slope corners. When brushing waterproof coating, paste 1 2 layers of glass wire cloth reinforcement.

4: The total thickness of the polyurethane waterproof coating film is required to be more than millimeters. It can't be decided by the number of passes.

The pipe root and the corner of the reinforcing layer are brushed first, and after the surface is dried at room temperature for 4h, then a large area is brushed and scraped. There shall be no leakage and bubbling. Brush a large area for 24 hours and then apply the next layer after curing.

6: The waterproof layer on the ground should be painted 300 wide outside the door of the bathroom. The waterproof floor waterproof layer should be 200 meters higher than the ground, and the wall waterproof layer of the bathroom with shower should be 1800 meters higher than the ground (L8 recommends waterproofing the full wall).

7: Do the closed water test according to the requirements (the closed water test method is omitted). 8：

There is a practice of wrapping risers (details of the riser method L8 old post), it is recommended to do the riser after waterproofing, and then make up the waterproofing locally, if the ground waterproof layer is not damaged, you can avoid the closed water experiment.

The main problem here is the problem of the drain pipe, what do you mean by punching holes?

In this case, there is no need to make a hole in the floor slab.

Suggested Treatment:

1. Partially chisel out the bathroom;

2. Connect the drainage of the new toilet with the original drainage;

3. Install a new toilet;

4. Recovery. According to this process, the waterproof layer on the bottom plate of the bathroom structure will not be damaged at all, where is the waterproof problem involved?

Do you mean that the waterproofing layer was made before the tile construction, and I am afraid that this will be destroyed?

As long as the bottom is waterproofed, it will not be affected.

Buy the plugging spirit first, put more! Once blocked, you'll be fine! If you can't block it, you have to do it all in a large area!