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This is correct, because the bath bomb switch controls the zero line (the zero line we know is a public line, generally only one, when the switch is closed, the zero line and the live wire form a loop, at this time the load works) The lack of this connection is that the load has been in a live state, which causes potential safety hazards to future replacement, so the decoration company added a single open to control the bath bomb switch, which is equivalent to a master switch, and can be closed during maintenance to ensure personal safety.
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You should have construction drawings at home, just look at the construction drawings, in my experience, your switch is a mirror front light. Look at the light switch above the mirror.
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Since it's installed, it's an ornament.,Jump the live wire directly to the bath bomb control switch to control it directly.。
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This switch should be designed at the entrance of the toilet so that it can be easily controlled from outside the bathroom. It's boring to have two switches in one!
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Is it to control the bathroom exhaust fan.
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First of all, it is necessary to explain how many lights there are in the bathroom at home, whether it is dual-controlled, etc. Otherwise, the cause cannot be determined. You can consult the reason for the renovation company that renovated you.
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One for heating appliances, one for other main lighting, and some for a mirror headlamp. They are all placed as needed, and there is no rule that there must be several.
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It is best to install a switch for high-power electrical appliances separately, one water heater and one bath bomb.
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You can ask the manufacturer to turn down the remote control for you.